Authenticating couture garments—from Chanel and Dior to Balenciaga, YSL, Givenchy, Valentino, and Schiaparelli—requires examining the interior of the garment, not the exterior. Couture houses follow strict atelier traditions for labels, stitchwork, seam allowances, lining attachment, thread choice, and finishing details. Counterfeiters often replicate silhouettes and fabrics, but they rarely duplicate the internal architecture or era-correct construction techniques.
DJR Expert Guide Series, Vol. 220 — The Hidden World of Couturier Labels: Tags, Threads & Seam Construction gives collectors, resellers, estate professionals, and fashion historians a complete forensic system for evaluating couture garments through interior craftsmanship. This guide breaks down label typography by decade, thread identification, hand stitching vs machine stitching, lining behavior, boning, zipper selection, hardware, and atelier-specific construction traits.
Inside, you’ll learn how experts:
Analyze couture labels using era-correct fonts, stitching, backing, and placement
Identify thread types, stitch length, tension, and hand-finishing indicators
Distinguish true couture from prêt-à-porter using internal architecture
Evaluate seam allowances, graded seams, bias finishes, and overcasting
Examine linings, interlinings, horsehair canvases, and internal structure
Identify boning, darts, shaping layers, and organza understructures
Authenticate zippers, hooks, eyes, and hardware by decade and maison
Recognize hand-finishing markers unique to Chanel, Dior, YSL, Balenciaga, and others
Detect replaced labels, reconstructed garments, and fraudulent atelier claims
Assess condition, restoration, and alterations that affect attribution
Volume 220 provides a complete, atelier-based authentication system—ensuring confident identification of genuine couture and protecting collectors from replicas, reconstructed garments, and counterfeit labels.
Digital Download — PDF • 8 Pages • Instant Access
Authenticating couture garments—from Chanel and Dior to Balenciaga, YSL, Givenchy, Valentino, and Schiaparelli—requires examining the interior of the garment, not the exterior. Couture houses follow strict atelier traditions for labels, stitchwork, seam allowances, lining attachment, thread choice, and finishing details. Counterfeiters often replicate silhouettes and fabrics, but they rarely duplicate the internal architecture or era-correct construction techniques.
DJR Expert Guide Series, Vol. 220 — The Hidden World of Couturier Labels: Tags, Threads & Seam Construction gives collectors, resellers, estate professionals, and fashion historians a complete forensic system for evaluating couture garments through interior craftsmanship. This guide breaks down label typography by decade, thread identification, hand stitching vs machine stitching, lining behavior, boning, zipper selection, hardware, and atelier-specific construction traits.
Inside, you’ll learn how experts:
Analyze couture labels using era-correct fonts, stitching, backing, and placement
Identify thread types, stitch length, tension, and hand-finishing indicators
Distinguish true couture from prêt-à-porter using internal architecture
Evaluate seam allowances, graded seams, bias finishes, and overcasting
Examine linings, interlinings, horsehair canvases, and internal structure
Identify boning, darts, shaping layers, and organza understructures
Authenticate zippers, hooks, eyes, and hardware by decade and maison
Recognize hand-finishing markers unique to Chanel, Dior, YSL, Balenciaga, and others
Detect replaced labels, reconstructed garments, and fraudulent atelier claims
Assess condition, restoration, and alterations that affect attribution
Volume 220 provides a complete, atelier-based authentication system—ensuring confident identification of genuine couture and protecting collectors from replicas, reconstructed garments, and counterfeit labels.
Digital Download — PDF • 8 Pages • Instant Access
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