Antique 18K Gold Mesh Purse — A Masterpiece of Early 20th Century Craftsmanship

Elegant, intricate, and remarkably rare, this antique 18K yellow gold mesh purse represents the height of craftsmanship and luxury from a bygone era. Entirely hand-stitched and weighing an impressive 137 grams, this piece exemplifies the delicate engineering and artistry that defined fine gold accessories in the late 19th to early 20th century.

Design and Construction

The purse is constructed from hundreds of individually linked gold rings, each woven by hand into a flexible chainmail mesh body. Its frame, chain, and tassel are crafted in solid 18K gold (stamped 750), while the clasp is accented by a pair of cabochon-cut black stones — possibly onyx or jet. The interior mechanism remains fully functional, with smooth closure and a period-correct hand-forged hinge.

The hallmark reads “D & G 18K 0750,” but this stamp predates the modern Dolce & Gabbana fashion house. It is instead consistent with European or American goldsmith markings used in the early 20th century, where “D&G” likely identifies the original workshop or master craftsman rather than a fashion brand.

Historical and Artistic Context

Gold mesh purses first rose to prominence during the Belle Époque and Art Deco eras, when socialites and aristocrats carried them as symbols of refinement and status. These purses required extraordinary handwork — often taking weeks to complete — and were made in small quantities by luxury jewelers in France, Italy, and the United States.

By the 1920s, gold mesh bags had become collector’s items in their own right, valued for their intricate engineering and precious metal content. Many were later melted down during economic downturns, making surviving examples especially desirable today.

Value and Collectibility

An antique 18K gold mesh purse of this caliber, weighing approximately 136.9 grams, holds both intrinsic gold value and strong collector appeal. Based on current gold markets, its melt value alone exceeds $9,000–$10,000, while its artistic and historical merit can raise total appraised value into the $15,000–$25,000 range depending on provenance and condition.

Because of the frequent misidentification of hallmarks and maker’s marks, professional authentication is crucial. Confirming the origin and age of goldwork ensures proper valuation — especially when a piece bears ambiguous markings like “D&G.”

Fine Jewelry Authentication and Appraisal

Whether you’re evaluating antique gold jewelry, signed pieces, or family heirlooms, professional authentication and documentation protect both value and provenance.

Learn more about DJR Authentication’s full range of online and in-person appraisal, authentication, consulting, and selling services — trusted by collectors, estates, and jewelers worldwide for fine jewelry and precious metal verification.